服装常见的不良情况之车工篇
1. SPI uneven – haven’t adjusted the sewing machine.
针距超差——缝制时没有按工艺要求严格调整针距。
2. Skip stitch - mechanical failure on sewing machine.
跳针——由于机械故障，间断性出现。
3. Seam allowance leak out at welt corner– poorly pocket sewing or poorly cutting.
毛漏——折光毛边时不严密，挖袋技术不过关，袋角毛漏。
4. Loose stitch on top – bobbin stitch too loose, or presser foot on sewing machine is too tight.
浮面线——梭皮罗丝太松，或压线板太紧。
5. Loose stitch on bottom – top stitch too tight, or presser foot on sewing machine is too loose.
浮底线——压线板太松，或梭皮罗丝紧。
6. Facing or lining visible – poor sewing skill or lining is too long.
止口反吐——缝制技术差，没有按照工艺要求吐止口。
7. Edges turn outward – shell fabric too tight.
反翘——面子过紧，或缝制时面子放在上面造成。
8. Seam puckering – panels are not in same length.
起皱——没有按照缝件的厚薄调换针线，或缝合件有长短。
9. Joint stitch – didn’t match the stitch track perfectly
双轨——压单明线，断线后接缝线时不在原线迹上，补线时造成两条线迹。
10. Double stitch not parallel – poor sewing skill
双线不平行——由于技术不过关，或操作马虎造成双线宽窄不匀。
11. Seam not flat – seam allowance not flat; or stretched make sewing panels are not in same length.
不平服——内里缝头没有理顺抚平，缝头长短不吻合，上下片松紧不一。
12. Corner not square-shaped – pocket, pocket flap, sweep corner not square-shaped, because of poorly sewing work, or the panel is not squared itself.
不方正——袋角，袋底，摆角，方领没有按90度缝制
13. Corner not round-shaped - pocket, pocket flap, sweep corner not round-shaped, because of poorly sewing work, or the panel is not round itself.
不圆顺——圆领，圆袋角，圆袖头，西服圆摆，由于缝制技术不过关出现细小楞角。
14. Not symmetrical – pocket, print placement not symmetrical, mainly because workers didn’t sew up those according to notch mark, or didn’t compare the panels before sewing.
不对称——口袋位，印花位，绣花位等由于未对片子或者刀眼，导致有高低，左右等误差。
15. Uneven ease – when sewing up sleeve cap or collar onto the body, the panels didn’t distribute evenly.
吃势不匀——上袖时在袖山部位由于吃势不均匀，造成袖山圆胖，或有细褶。
16. Skew – collar, sleeve and pocket skew, because workers didn’t sew up those according to notch mark, or there are too less notch marks.
上位歪斜——上袖，上领，定位点少于三个或定位不准。
17.Plaid / stripe not match - because workers didn’t sew up those according to notch mark, or didn’t compare the panels before sewing.
对条，对格不准——裁剪时没有留清刀眼位，或排料时没有严格对准条格。缝制时马虎， 没有对准条格。
18. Sink stitch – poorly sewing work.
上坎，下坎——缝纫技术低或操作马虎，没有做到缉线始终在缝口一边。
19. Stitch hole – needle tip crooked and damaged the fabric structure.
针孔外露—— 针尖弯曲，勾破面料组织。
20. Collar point not pointy – after sewing up the collar, workers didn’t completely turn the collar point inside out.
领角起豆——缝制技术低，领角缝位清理不合要求，折翻工艺不合要求，没有经过领角定型机压形。
21. Untrimmed thread – didn’t clean it completely at finish-section.
线头——做后道的时候没有修剪干净。
22. Size label placement incorrect – didn’t read construction sheet before sewing.
唛牌错位——主唛，洗水唛没有按样衣或工艺单要求缝制。
